Author: <span class="vcard">Rizkiy Tulehu</span>

Waterless Car Wash

An easy, economical, eco-friendly, and quick way to clean your vehicle between washes is to use a waterless car wash. A waterless car wash uses a pre-prepared lubricating spray that is used to thoroughly saturate each section of your car, which later gets wiped, one section at a time. Then any light dirt or grime can be carefully wiped off, section by section. Ideally, you would use microfiber cloths, which will not hurt the car’s finish. Waterless car washes should really only be used on cars without heavy dirt build-up. Too much dirt, and you risk scratching the car’s finish.

  • Finding the Right Product: You can choose to buy various wash formulas, which you can purchase online or at an auto parts store. There are ready-to-use formulas, or you can purchase a concentrate, which you must dilute before using. Some waterless car washes even include wax to protect the vehicle as you wash it. It takes an average time of 15-20 minutes to wash your medium-sized car using this method. If you are concerned about the chemicals, just be sure to pick a VOC compliant product, which is considered safe. You can find one with the main ingredient being organic and free of petrochemicals.
  • Using the Right Towels: Be sure to choose your towels very carefully. Using a soft towel with a deep nap gives plenty of room for dirt to remain in the towel, instead of being scoured against the paint. Using a thin, flat towel will not provide any spot for the loosened dirt to go, so the dirt will get rubbed against the paint as you wipe. An example of a good towel choice is a microfiber towel that has a minimum weight of 300 GSM (grams per square meter). Most microfiber towels last a long time, and can be washed and re-used 40-50 times, depending on the quality of the towel.

It is important to avoid using the same towel to clean your wheels that you use to clean the surface of your car. The wheels are usually covered in brake dust, so you shouldn’t risk putting that on your car’s paint finish. Buy some different colors of towels, so you can designate a specific color of towel just for detailing the wheels.

  • For Your Tires Too: Interestingly, you can also use the waterless car wash product to shine up your car’s tires as well, making them look like new. You can use it to remove road grime, tar, and even bugs that have been stuck on the tire’s surface for a long time.


Repairing Fuel Tank Is Safety Priority

Fuel Tanks Can Fail

Fuel tanks for cars and other small vehicles are made of either metal (steel or aluminum), or, more commonly these days, from high density polyethylene (HDPE) plastic. The plastic tanks can be configured in complex shapes that give auto manufacturers great design freedom in placing the tank over the rear axle to save space and improve safety in crashes. Early fears that the plastic would not last are a thing of the past; although, like any fuel tank, a plastic tank should be monitored for soundness.

Gas tanks are subject to several types of problems that can result from damage to the tank, fuel contamination, and sensor issues. Before attempting to repair a gas tank that is leaking, damaged, or shows other signs of problems, it is imperative to drain all gasoline from it and remove it from the car.

Common Fuel Tank Problems

Fuel tanks can experience several different types of problems:

    • Rust can eat through a metal tank to cause holes or leaks. It can also rust out the straps that hold the tank in place, which runs the risk that the tank can fall off the car. While plastic tanks do not rust, they can have defective or damaged seams that lead to leaks.
    • Since tanks are placed in front of the rear axle, owners can create holes or leaks in gas tanks by drilling into the trunk and hitting the tank. This can happen if owners try to secure a stereo system or trunk organizer and failed to account for the location of the tank.
    • As a result of fender benders and driving over potholes, fuel tanks can suffer from dents and other damage that leave the tank weak.
    • Fuel lines leading into the gas tank can fracture. The extra heat or sparks of the source could cause a fire or explosion
    • Bad or contaminated fuel can cause performance issues and damage other parts. The symptoms are often loss of power, stalling, profiling, and premature fuel injector and fuel pump failure.
    • Slow filling, indicated by a tank that does not want to accept gas, or a gas station hose pump that keeps shutting off, can result from a faulty vapor venting system inside the tank.

 


Repair Car Dents

  • Just Paint It Up
    If the dent is nothing more than a simple flaking of paint or scratch on the surface, you can fix it just by a simple coat of paint. However, remember to use sandpaper to remove rust or paint scrapes before applying the prime and paint.
  • Use A Rubber Plunger
    If it’s a sizable ding with no crease in the middle, using a rubber plunger would be the best solution. It can pop back the steel surface if it hasn’t been creased badly. Place the plunger over the dent after moistening its rubber edges and pump a couple of times to establish a suction. Pull the plunger towards you. With a little force, a couple of tries will be sufficient to pull out the dent. The plunger method will work if the surface is large such a fender or door and made of metal
  • Try With A Hammer
    If it’s a small dent on a steel surface, try to repair it with a flat-ended rubber mallet. It is firm enough to fix a dent in a car but is less likely to leave any ugly marks on the surface. Wrap a flat metal piece with a piece of rag and place it directly on the dent. Now, use the mallet to bang the area from the underside. Use a small hammer for a small ding and a big one for large car dent repair. Besides, be very careful about not to bang the surrounding area of the pitted part as it is likely to create a few more bumps.
  • Glazing Putty For Tiny Dings
    Glazing putty is an excellent option for filling up the places with chipped paint or tiny dimples. Apply it to the spot with a putty knife and then use primer and paint as the final touch ups. It’s very simple as you just have to follow the directions on the package.

Ensure Wheel Safety

For a safe journey, make sure that your wheels are in proper working condition to avoid any trouble on the road. It is essential that you check the wheel alignment before a road trip as this can cause accidents if it is not properly checked and corrected.

Investing in quality wheels is a good way to ensure wheel safety. Check the reputation and track record of the wheel manufacturer so that you can be sure of its safety. Quality wheels can last you quite a long time and is a good way to ensure the safety of yourself and your family.

Inflate your tyres at the optimal level each time you go to a fueling station. Under-inflation can cause harm to your wheels, so check your wheels’ tyre pressure. Also, make sure that there aren’t any cracks or objects in them that could lead to punctures and deflation during driving.

Avoid speeding and driving over potholes which can lead to damaging the wheels. If you drive too fast into a pothole your wheels could get damaged, which means that you will have to replace them very quickly. In the same breath, it is advisable to drive slowly over speed bumps for the same reason.

When your car is parked ensure that the surface it is parked on is steady and smooth, as uneven pressure could lead to wheel deflation. Weak spots on the wheels can also cause punctures and lead to blow outs.

The tread depth should also be taken into consideration; if the tread is low then this means that the old wheels need to be replaced. The recommended tread depth is 3 mm for all wheels.

Investing in all-season wheels is worth considering as they have a higher silica content in the tread which prevents it from hardening at lower temperature. Therefore, the wheels will have a better grip in cold and wet weather conditions.


Indications of Car Engine Failure

Engine Stalling

When an engine stalls, this could mean a variety of problems. It could be a simply fix, such as replacing or charging the car battery; or it could be something more serious, like a failing engine. A one-time stall usually means a battery or fuel issue; but if you are experiencing frequent stalling, this could mean you need to repair your engine or replace it entirely.

Banging and Clinking Noises in the Engine Carriage

If you are hearing strange, and even loud, noises coming from the engine region of your vehicle, this is a sign of wear and tear. The diagnosis could be a number of things; from spark plugs to engine oil. Piston rings, the connector rod, crankshaft, valves, sump, cylinders, and more can all cause these strange noises to occur. It is important to have your car engine inspected every few thousand miles to make sure these engine components and more are all functional and in good condition.

Overheating

An engine in a car or truck can overheat for several reasons. A car or truck engine requires a specific supply of anti-freeze to help prevent an engine from overheating. It travels through all the engine components, keeping them cool while in drive-mode. To accurately determine what is causing the overheating to happen, identify when the car or truck is overheating. If it is overheating while driving at high speeds, it could mean the thermostat is broken, there’s a kink in the radiator hose, or other radiator problems. If your vehicle’s engine overheats at a standstill, the possibilities include an inoperative electric cooling fan, faulty AC sensors, bad head gaskets, bad radiator cap, and again, low coolant levels.


Places For Car Bow

  • Top of your vehicle- The top of your car is surely one of the best placement positions for a jumbo bow. If you have a very large car bow, the item will look good when you place it on the top of the car. Car bows that are smaller will not look too good on the top of your car.
  • Glass of the car- If you have purchased a car bow that is medium in size, you can place it on the glass of the car. The design and style of the bow should be like a butterfly stroke. These bows are ideal for you to place on the glass of the car.
  • Bonnet of the car- This is one of the best and most preferred positions for the placement of a car bow. Both big and small bows can conveniently be placed on the bonnet of the car. These bows look good here as they have their long and loose bow tails falling and adorning the look of the car successfully. The front of the car also looks charming when you place the bow on it.
  • Corner or Upper Left Portion Of The Car- If you have small to medium sized bows, you can effectively place them on the corner or the upper left part of the car. This placement position may seem to be a little odd and it is not the first place that you would like to place your bow on. However, if you try out the arrangement, you will see that it surely does justice to small to medium sized bows.
  • Front of the car- If you wish to give your vehicle a royal and distinctive look, you have the option of placing the bow on the front portion of the car. However, you should not keep the bow in this position for a long time as the heat coming out of the grate of the car can spoil the looks of the bow.

Therefore, when you are looking for the best position for your bow, it is important for you to take into account the size and style of the bow. The above five places are ideal for you to place the bow and make the vehicle look enchanting and stunning too!

 


Cars Have Evolved

It’s surprising to think that the first car or automobile designed only had one cylinder. Can you imagine how slow that is compared to the cars we have now? Not to mention how much fuel consumption it might have taken due to the heavy materials.

Most of the cars designed before the WWII era were steam powered and incredibly huge. That was the time when they discovered internal combustion. It’s odd to think that the cars available to us now have the engine neatly packed into a small area of the car.

Although, they improved the earlier cars to be lightweight, they still had a few problems that would not work in the present. The wheels used to be very thin and seemed to struggle under the strain on the car. They were also top heavy so it wouldn’t won’t work well with all weather conditions. This is probably the reason why so many cars had become convertibles or had roofless mechanical systems.

Before the war they also started manufacturing cars with larger engines. This is understandable since tanks had also started becoming the major projects for automobile companies.

Another interesting aspect about the older models is that they didn’t have indicators on the sides of the car. In those days, not many people owned a car so indicating which direction you were going wasn’t a big concern on the roads.

It’s easy to find a car now that is light in weight and doesn’t consume too much power or fuel. As we have evolved so has science thus allowing us to find easier ways to live life to the maximum.

Although, not all inventions and models of cars have been smart in terms of economy.

Cars with more cylinders are likely to consumer more fuel. You often see a model with a 2.6 litre V-8 with a turbo engine. This is how much fuel your car consumes once its gone through the ignition and compression cycle of the pistons. It starts again once the gases go through the outlet. It may be uneconomical but it sure is exhilarating to drive a car that has power. However, for economical purposes the hybrid car was created. The forces and movement that power this type of car charge the electrical component in case you run out of gas.


Original E-Type Jaguar

The Lamborghini Miura ushered in the age of the supercar. The McLaren F1 taught us what true speed was. The Bugatti Veyron has taken technology, craftsmanship and performance to stratospheric heights. And, the Tesla Roadster has brought together high-performance and electric power, bringing us one step closer to viable electric cars.

However, there is one car that is well and truly on the top of the list of automotive greats, the Malcolm Sayer designed Jaguar XK-E, also know as the E-Type. The E-Type redefined what beauty is in a car. Upon seeing it, Enzo Ferrari called it “The most beautiful car ever made”. That means a lot coming from the man who made the 274 GTB/4 Berlinetta.

Jaguar created two prototype concepts ahead of the E-Type, the E1A in 1957 and the E2A in 1960. The E1A featured a monocoque chassis, fully independent rear suspension and the “XK” engine, a dual-overhead cam inline 6 cylinder around since 1949. The E1A was a factory test mule and was never released to the public. The E2A was made from an aluminum body on a steel chassis and used a 3 liter version of the “XK” engine. This car was finished as a race car, as Jaguar thought the racing circuit would provide a better testing ground. They were right. The orignal E2A was recently sold through Bonham’s Auction House for $4,957,000.

Due to the success of the E2A as a racer and as a testing platform, Jaguar began selling the E-Type in 1961. And, from 1961 to the model’s end in 1974, Jaguar sold 72,515 XK-Es. Over those 14 model years, Jaguar released 3 versions of the E-Type, appropriately named Series I, II and III.

Series I of the XK-E ran from March 1961 to 1968 and used the 3.8 liter straight-6 with SU carburetors engine from the XK150S until October 1964 when the displacement was increased to 4.2 liters. Like the prototype racer, the Series I came equipped with disc brakes all around and a fully independent coil rear suspensions with torsion bar front ends.

My favorite feature of the Series I was the glass-covered headlights that were present on most E-Type variations until 1967. If you want to get detailed, the Series I also featured a smaller opening at the front, signals and taillights located above the bumpers and the exhaust protruding from under the rear license plate.

From 1961 to 1964, the Series Is were equipped with a Moss 4-Speed transmission which was missing the useful syncromeshing for first gear. In 1965, Jaguar adopted a 4-speed gearbox with syncromeshing in all four gears. A year later, to add to the roadster and coupe E-Types offered, Jaguar added a 2+2 coupe version with an optional 3-speed automatic transmission.

In 1961, the Jaguar E-Type was tested to have a top speed of 149 mph and a 7.1 second 0-60 time. All that with 17.7 miles per gallon. Those are serious performance numbers, especially considering the E-Type’s successor, the 1976 XJS, only managed a 0-60 of 7.6 seconds and a top speed of 143. 38,419 Series I XK-Es were sold.

In 1969, Jaguar released the XK-E Series II, which only lasted three models years until 1971. Jaguar kept the three model options, the convertible, the coupe and the 2+2. The Series II lost the gorgeous glass covered headlights in favor of open lights, switched to a wrap-around bumper and addressed cooling issues by adding electric fans and enlarging the car’s “mouth”. More comfortable (but uglier) seats were fitted to the interior, and air conditioning and power steering were offered as options for the first time.

Due to what I can only define as idiocy on the part of the U.S., Series II E-Types imported to the States were fitted with twin Zenith-Stromberg carbs and detuned. I’m not sure why, but apparently, the U.S. preferred a slower E-Type. Like I said, idiocy. 18,809 Series II E-Types were sold.

1971 through the XK-Es end in 1974 saw several major changes in Series III. To begin with, the 2-seater coupe was eliminated, leaving just the roadster and the 2+2. Also, Jaguar canned the venerable straight-6 in favor of a new 5.3 liter V-12, which would evolve into the power plant for the XJS. Better brakes and power steering became standard, and the car was fitted with a new front grill, flared wheel arches and V-12 badging. 15,287 Series IIIs were sold. While it is still an astonishingly beautiful car, the Series III E-Type wasn’t nearly as good as the Series I and II, with Series I being the all-out favorite.


Taking Care of Brake Rotors

The braking system of any vehicle is expansive. It incorporates the discs, fluids, hub and other components that bring your vehicle to a halt. The pads clamp on the rotors to bring your vehicle to a halt. Depending on the stopping mechanism and uses of a vehicle, there are different types of rotors and pads. Each has unique properties like heat resistance and provision of a firm grip. These properties determine suitability for different vehicles.

It is the dream of every individual to own a vehicle especially for convenience during movement. Every vehicle owner thus endeavors to keep the vehicle in perfect shape at all times. The areas that require regular maintenance include Brake Rotors. They give signals that they are worn-out and need replacement. What signs can a vehicle owner watch out for?

Conduct a deliberate road test

it might be difficult to detect malfunction on your rotors during normal drives because your attention is on the road. To conduct a test successfully, use a deserted road which allows you to apply instant brakes without inconveniencing other motorists. Vary the speed before breaking to get a feel of the extent of wear and tear. It is best if you understand the performance at optimum level.

Squealing sound- this is a high pitched noise that occurs once you apply the brakes especially on high speed. Others alongside the sound include the vehicle pulling to one side once you apply the brakes. It shows that pressure is being applied unevenly. A grinding sound also indicates that the pads are scoring or grinding on the rotors. Vibrations also indicate a faulty breaking system.

Replacing Braking Rotors

A driver should always be attentive whenever the vehicle produces unfamiliar sound. The idea is to identify the specific instances when the sound is produced. This is important for accurate diagnosis. The basic solution is to replace components of the brake system that are worn out. In fact, replacing brake pads falls under DIY tasks since it is easy, straight forward and does not require a lot of tools.

It is advantageous to engage an experienced mechanic or garage to safeguard the quality of work. A garage has all the tools and personnel required to successfully complete the replacement. However, you must be prepared to pay the price.

Your safety and control of vehicle on the road depend on the reliability of your braking system. Regularly check your Brake Rotors and other parts to ensure that they are in optimum condition. Involve an experienced and well trained technician in repair, replacement and maintenance of your vehicle.


Car Restoration

Obviously you need to listen to their concerns about the car and give them what they want. I know that this can be very hard to do, but it is the job of any shop to make the customer happy. There are a lot of way to do that but the best way is to listen to them.

The people that restore these cars expect perfection, and they are spending a lot of money to get it. An average custom car or restoration can easily exceed $70,000 and usually does. That is a boat load of money.

Now for that meat and potatoes of this article. If you’re a customer looking for a high quality shop first you should look at what past customers are saying about that shop. You need to use discretion here because some customers are just vindictive and have nothing good to say.

So you should weigh the good against the bad. Most shops that practice high quality restoration work don’t have a lot of customers that are saying bad things about them. But we are still human beings and accidents will happen, but no shop should charge you for an accident.

A shop owner who takes pride in his shop and keeps it clean and nice looking probably does high quality work, but make sure that you talk to the owner and see what vibe you get form him. Owners are business men who just happen to love cars, and you should get that feeling.

You want them to be concerned about their business and love the cars at the same time. If the owner is concerned about his business he will make sure that the shop always does the highest quality work that it possibly can.

Take a look at the people who work for the shop. If you are constantly hearing them bitch about the cars and the people that own them you should not have that shop work on your car because these are the same people that will be building your car.

You are trusting your classic car to these people and if they don’t like working on it they won’t do good work. You should always get references from people who have had work done by that shop in the past. It might be just a bad day that they are having.

Keep in mind that some employees just like to bitch, and they do such good work the owner doesn’t thinks that the shop can afford to get rid of them. It’s not rocket science you just need to pay attention to whats going on around the shop.

If you do these things you should be able to find a great shop to restore your classic car or build you a hot rod. In the end it all comes down to how you research the shop before you leave your car to them. Enjoy you classic car, and have fun building it.